Morocco - Sidi Kaouki to Oualidia - Essaouira

 

Breakfast outside at the Dar with the usual feline accompaniment.

Time for a quick walk, escorted by a small pack of dogs which made the first part a bit uncomfortable.

What a beach!

So different without the crowds, camels and horses from last night.

Need for a washroom visit before the drive let me see the Dar 

where the others had been staying.

It wasn't a very long drive and we were in Essaouira, first settled and fortified by the Portuguese.

We had a brief tour around the Medina to get the lay of the land. It was very quiet,

more stores opening up as we walked.

Cats waiting for the daily

activity to start.

Up onto

the ramparts.

with the waves crashing at the base.

Its a small pedestrian area, 2 main streets,

so, unlike Marrakech,

no fears of getting lost

or hit by a scooter.

Back at the main square we decided to stay for a couple of hours and meet back there.

Nic, Dave and I

found a place for a coffee and then bought some pastries to try.

I split off,

to explore

the harbour.

Through the arch and it was a swirl of 

sights and

smells

and sounds.

A huge variety of fish to buy - crab, lobster, urchin, huge tuna, long eels, sharks and lots and lots of sardines.

Opportunistic cats

and gulls.

I walked all the way to the end past the bigger boats

and the men mending nets.

and then back to the square

where I enjoyed the music, acrobats, balloon sellers and crowds, while sketching, until it was time to meet up with the others.

Morocco - Agadir to Sidi Kaouki. Part 2

I just realized I have been spelling it Argon Oil and it is Argan Oil (Argon is a chemical element)! Sorry. 

We turned off the road, just before Sidi Kaouki on to a very rough, bumpy track

past tethered horses, that we would see later on the beach,

to a lovely homestead

full of flowers

and colour 

and animals

and birds and 4 sisters who ran this home based business.

First we were invited to take off our shoes and settle, on the floor, around low tables

to drink the traditional mint tea and 

eat bread with honey, nut butter or argan oil.

After that relaxing welcome we moved into a room with a long table where we would make two Tagines, one chicken and one vegetable.

Our instructor outlined the ingredients; various spices, fruit and olives

that would go in with vegetables in one Tagine and chicken in the other.

We were all assigned peeling and chopping

and mixing

and stacking until everything was prepared, a little hot water added, lid went on

and they were put to cook over coals from the fire. For and hour and a half.

We took a break, admiring the pottery

and the decor

and the general relaxed feel of the place (this is Leo)

Next we were to make bread; flour, fine semolina, water, yeast and sugar

Our instructor kneaded it into a smooth dough

and we each had a piece to form into a flat circle.

After the bread had rested

we each cooked a piece, in a dry pottery pan over the open fire.

Another

period

of relaxation and

our lunch was ready.

It was the best meal we have had this trip, flavourful and fresh!

I even tried some of the chicken (cooked with raisins and prunes)

Water with, tea and cookies after.

This was my favorite experience so far. The location was lovely, the instructor was fluent and personable, the food was excellent and it was all conducted in a relaxed manner.

5 minutes down the road and we were in Sidi Kaouki and at our Dar. (A Riad is a wealthy home and a Dar is more simple)

We didn't all fit in the one Dar so Nic, Dave, Joe and I went down an alley way to another one. We had the house to ourselves, with a swimming pool and from the others reports, we got the best deal.

Almost immediately we headed out to see this village. Camels and horses at one end (to ride on the beach)

A second floor terrace table, for drinks and the sunset.

Alcohol is not available everywhere but it is sporadically avialable

The others moved on to the next bar down the beach

but I went back

to my accomodation

went for a swim

had a shower and

hit the sack.