Wednesday, 30 November 2016

Baja California - La Paz, last day and Zarape en Malecon

Today I walked downtown just enjoying the warm weather and light breeze.
How could I resist a sign like that.
Brightly coloured with tassels and ribbons. Some had pictures on them. They were hanging in the parking area/courtyard of a house.
Pinatas, according to wikapedia : The Mexican Catholic interpretation of the piñata rested on the struggle of man against temptation. The seven points represent the seven deadly sins. The pot represents evil and the seasonal fruit and candy inside, the temptations of evil. The person with the stick is blindfolded to represent faith. The turning, singing and shouting represent the disorientation that temptation creates. In some traditions, the participant is turned thirty three times, one for each year of Christ's life. These interpretations were given to the piñata for catechism purposes. As the participant beats the piñata, it is supposed to represent the struggle against temptation and evil. When the piñata breaks, the treats inside then represent the rewards of keeping the faith.[3][7

It goes on to say that the pinata has largely lost any religious meaning and is now just part of many Mexican celebrations.
This old building holds the tourist information office which I wish I had found on the first day rather than the last. I didn't even bother to go in.
On the other side of this street is the start of a shopping district with lots of narrow streets and small malls. There is a large Sears Store and a 3 Hermanos department store, restaurants and bars as well as smaller independent stores.
I kept going, down to the malecon and walked along, looking for a likely lunch place.
I walked quite a way along the malecon and ended up with this view from my table at Zarapa en Malecon.
My glass of wine came with these botanas; nachos, warm refried beans with white cheese grated on top, fresh salsa (no sloppy stuff here just tomatoes, onions, peppers and cilantro all chopped fine) and what the waiter called "hot dip" and it was.
I can't remember what this was called but it was chicken wrapped in tortillas and covered with mole sauce. The sauce was light and very tasty, I love mole. A salad was supposed to come with it but the waiter apologized, said it would have been too messy on the plate and
served it as a side dish. He bought me oil and vinegar for the dressing but it had a balsamic reduction drizzled over it and that was dressing enough.
By now I had decided that this was definitely my main meal for the day and I had the makings for a salad for supper at home. So I asked if they had flan on the dessert menu. The waiter, who spoke very good English, came back from the kitchen, apologetic, no flan, would I like another kind of dessert. I said no thanks and ordered a coffee. He said they had a special one with molasses, would I like to try it, sure.
When he returned with the coffee he also had some flan, said it was a miracle, the chef found some. I don't know maybe they went next door for it. Chocolate for presentation and fresh mint leaves on top.
The coffee was very good with molasses and cinnamon in it. When he described how the mixture is hard and melts in the coffee pot I realized that this was probably what the weird looking brown cones had been at the grocery store. They were in the produce section, near the spices.
I had sat with my wine and meal for a couple of hours, watching the bay and enjoying just being there. The meal cost me about $20 Canadian including tip.
A Christmas tree was going up on the malecon as I walked back.
So now I need to pack, tidy and clean up the house, fly home and get thinking about Christmas myself.

Tuesday, 29 November 2016

Baja California - La Paz, curious about water.

Reading the old posts, from Merida, yesterday, I realized that I had done some water colour painting while I was there and vowed to try and do more (the only way I can get better is practice, and lessons!). I bought my paints with me on this trip so gave it a another try.
Prepped on the table outside. A yoghurt container lid for a pallette.
Every time I have painted it has been en plein air and I always forget how fast the paint dries, the colours  I've mixed and then when I brush them on too. It makes it more difficult to blend, wash etc.
He was rather fun to do, the zen doodle cow skull.

People in La Paz are serious about having clean cars. The neighbours, who appear to have 3 vehicles, wash them every weekend. There are car washes, hand and automatic, scattered through the streets and enterprising men offer to wash your car while you are in the grocery store. This made me curious about water here. In two weeks I have not seen a drop of rain though I am told it rained alot with a recent hurricane and the summer months are rainier.
There is a cistern on the roof of the house and it is filled twice a week with city water. Dale told me that hers, in Todos Santos, is filled once a week. I have been pretty careful with water as I don't really know how long a cistern full lasts. Of course I am drinking bottled water. The water from the air conditioner pipe is used to water the courtyard plants.
I pour the bottled water into this attractive crock so it's easy to fill a glass or a water bottle.
 Researching on the internet I found out that La Paz gets, on average, about 7 inches of rain a year in 18 rainy days. Water comes from an aquafier and they are building an aquaduct to get more water from the Sierra de la Laguna mountains. One article noted that most people in La Paz don't have a water meter so have no idea how much they are using or if they have a leak. A survey done also concluded that most residents of La Paz don't know that their water comes from the mountains or how much it costs.
There is residual arsenic pollution, in the water, in the mountains, from previous mining operations and there is currently quite a bit of resistance to a plan for Canadian and American companies to start up mining operations again. Wealthy developments (mostly around Los Cabos) have been putting in desalination plants to solve their water shortages but there is not much research on how many can operate in a small area without environmental consequences (a huge use of energy and pumping concentrated brine back into the ocean). I found a 2015 article that stated that a desalination plant would start construction, in La Paz, that year, also a water treatment plant, but I could find no indication that either plan materialized.. It is unlikely that the area will get more rain and it is the second fastest growing state in Mexico.

The fountain in the central square (designed to look like a local coastal rock formation) isn't always operating.
Interestingly the Nov 29, 2016 edition of the Baja Citizen, a local English language publication had an article titled "Home Water Management Ideas in La Paz" but the article was entirely about water softeners and water filters, not about using less water.
House finch bathing, unconcerned about the water supply, in a courtyard fountain.

Monday, 28 November 2016

Baja California - La Paz, mad dogs and Englishmen.

In a previous post I mentioned getting out and walking before the heat of the day. Well after a shower, some clothes hand washing, 2 cups of coffee, breakfast and online banking it was noon before I left the house. But I wasn't planning on going far, or for very long. Part of the problem is that there is no "shady side of the street" at that time of day. Anyway, I was looking for a couple of buildings that had been closed when I found them on the weekend; Unidad Cultural and Archivo Historico
On the way I passed this. I must live a sheltered life, I've never seen a "Beer Tunnel Express", a drive through (literally) beer store, before.
This is where I was headed as I had read there is an art gallery and theatre in the building.
 I found the gallery but it was closed and I could see that they were mounting a new show. I heard noise from the open door of the theatre and found that there was an art exhibit in the lobby.
I don't know if there was a title or theme to the exhibition but some of it seemed to left over from Dia de los Muertos which was at the beginning of the month.

The Day of the Dead is a big celebration in Mexico with people dressing up as skeletons and a fiesta like atmosphere. It is also a time to decorate graves, remember family members who have passed away and eat the food that they loved.

"Trascender" by Edelmira Ridriguez Morales

It wasn't all gruesome. "Bailarina" by Aline Flores.

"Nina con Esterella" by Gerardo Fernandez.

This one had an element of collage to it. "Arbol de la Vida" by Vicente Cedillo Nieto

"Abalax" by Lizette Inzunza. Loved this, the colour was perfectly spilt red wine colour. Not the colour of the wine in the glass but the muddier, purplier colour when it stains a cloth. But I never think of dancing when I spill wine. Or is it that the wine tastes like dancing or is it an ink blot thing. Shouldn't think too much about it, I just loved the image.

Finally in honour of my courtyard visitors. "Triptico de Colibris" by Maria Azucena Quevedo Luque

 I walked up the stairs to the open doors of the theatre and watched for a moment a musical performance of Red Riding Hood and the Wolf before an audience of children.
This building had big glass doors and I could see there were photographs lining the lobby and corridors.

The photos were of La Paz from the 1920's on, many labeled as "postcards". It was interesting to see the dirt streets, single story thatched and adobe houses, horses and wagons and then old cars, earlier versions of the port and malecon and the cathedral with no towers and then with one tower.
Well, that is what I had planned to do but then looking down the street I could see and smell the sea. So even though I was hot and didn't have my good walking shoes on, I headed down the slight hill.
This reminded me of the houses I had just seen in the old photos. The old brick was being repointed and some replaced. Newer construction is with cement blocks or poured cement then covered with stucco.
This just makes me laugh. Wheel chair access at the corners but there is no way a wheelchair could traverse the irregular sidewalks of cement, stone, sand, gravel, steps, ridges and ramp driveways. I saw one woman with a cane walking down the middle of the street. It was the smoothest area.
A man called me over to look at the Poinsettas he was selling. Each one in a brown paper bag like illicit alcohol. When I took a picture he pointed
to a prettier one to take.
I walked down to the fishing area that I had seen on my first walk, last week, and walked along it. There was a a woman cooking the fresh fish on hot coals for a group of fishermen. It smelled heavenly.
The pelicans looked well fed
and content.

I have seen one of these on the telephone pole, from the courtyard, but on the walk home was able to get a picture. A Gilded Flicker
 So, home, after 2 and a half hours walking in the heat of the day. Hot, blistered and looking for a green salad and avocado for lunch. I'm really going to miss these avocados.

Sunday, 27 November 2016

Baja California - La Paz, another walk about

March 2013, George waiting patiently, listening to his music, while I sketched at Chichen Itza.
George has been gone, 3 years today. Thanks to everyone who e-mailed with support. Three and a half years ago we were both in another Mexican city, Merida, for a month. Before leaving the house this morning I had a look at some of those blog posts

March 2013. In the hammock, trying to figure out the bus schedule. We never did figure it out.
March 2013. George was pretty happy with these snacks in tortillas, they were a buck each.

While I wandered La Paz today, I was reminded of that great trip, how far out of George's comfort zone we were and how much we both enjoyed it. He was always uncomfortable when he couldn't speak the language or read the writing. He had got sick in Mexico before, in Oaxaca, so was worried about the food and he just didn't feel safe in Mexico. However after about a week, we settled in and both loved it. He could order beer and ask for the check in Spanish and he had no ill effects from the food and we felt safe in Merida.
Walking along the sidewalk in La Paz, like Merida, you are often ducking the trees. George at nearly 6 foot was having to deal with a culture in which the people, Mayan, were much smaller than him, Trees cut at about 5 foot, awnings and tarps over stalls all had to be ducked. Although the people here are a bit taller they are still shorter than the average Canadian, lots of ducking as I walk along the sidewalk.
Merida had old, Spanish architecture. La Paz doesn't. I spent today looking for some old buildings. I passed this one, brick, wood shingle roof, but couldn't tell if it was being refurbished or knocked down.
When visiting with Dale in Todos Santos she showed me old brick buildings and said that people were actually taking the stucco off and exposing the original brick below. T.S. is aiming for "quaint and picturesque". La Paz on the other hand is covering brick with stucco to look clean, modern, efficient.
Lying in the shade, giving me the eye, but he didn't stir enough to bark at me. There are dogs here, in the yards and being walked on the malecon but I haven't seen any strays. Dale told me that there had been a push to round them up and neuter them.
I couldn't resist it, "Dogtor", hee hee.

I'm assuming its a "kindergarten"
I arrived at the central square along a different route and this is the side of the catedral. It was full as was another church I walked past. Everyone in their best clothes. Music and singing.
Balloons, perhaps a reward for having been good in church.
The nuns having a bake sale.
Children everywhere feed and then chase pigeons.
I sat in the park and sketched the cultural centre, opposite the catedral and then continued on beyond the square still looking for an older neighbourhood.
This row looked as if it might have been older but really I didn't find much that had the feel of being "old La Paz"
By now I was getting hot and tired and as it was about 1:30, started to look for a place for lunch. I was at the far end of town so walked back along the malecon and found a restaurant where I could just get something light.
All I ordered was vino tinto, agua and gaucamole. The nachos and salsa come to the table automatically (like we might get bread)  and at this restaurant they also bought another dip to (the one in the middle). It was delicious and I asked the waiter what it was. He went and got the chef who came out to tell me it was a secret, then laughed and told me it was homemade; tomato, chilli, salt and mayonnaise. I was stuffed and couldn't finish it all.
I nursed the meal and wine as I had a great view across the bay from my table. Pelicans, gulls, osprey and frigate birds all flying, diving, fishing, perching for my entertainment.

Two of these cruised by every now and then. The police were armed and there was a mounted machine gun in the back of the truck.
Entertained by the boats too. Wind was under 10 knots, temperature in the mid 20's, lovely day for the spinnaker.
I paid la cuenta and walked along the beach as the tide was out. Lots of birds digging in the wet sand. This might be a marbled godwit.
The fishing boats were pulled up on the beach.
I guess the fish get a break on Sundays.
I'll never have to look up a reddish egret again, they are identifiable by the way they dance around while fishing, dodging this way and that, (ADHD bird)

Hammerhead shark sculpture.
I walked about half way back along the malecon before flagging down a taxi and coming home.