Baja California - La Paz, another walk about

March 2013, George waiting patiently, listening to his music, while I sketched at Chichen Itza.

George has been gone, 3 years today. Thanks to everyone who e-mailed with support. Three and a half years ago we were both in another Mexican city, Merida, for a month. Before leaving the house this morning I had a look at some of those blog posts

March 2013. In the hammock, trying to figure out the bus schedule. We never did figure it out.

March 2013. George was pretty happy with these snacks in tortillas, they were a buck each.

While I wandered La Paz today, I was reminded of that great trip, how far out of George's comfort zone we were and how much we both enjoyed it. He was always uncomfortable when he couldn't speak the language or read the writing. He had got sick in Mexico before, in Oaxaca, so was worried about the food and he just didn't feel safe in Mexico. However after about a week, we settled in and both loved it. He could order beer and ask for the check in Spanish and he had no ill effects from the food and we felt safe in Merida.

Walking along the sidewalk in La Paz, like Merida, you are often ducking the trees. George at nearly 6 foot was having to deal with a culture in which the people, Mayan, were much smaller than him, Trees cut at about 5 foot, awnings and tarps over stalls all had to be ducked. Although the people here are a bit taller they are still shorter than the average Canadian, lots of ducking as I walk along the sidewalk.

Merida had old, Spanish architecture. La Paz doesn't. I spent today looking for some old buildings. I passed this one, brick, wood shingle roof, but couldn't tell if it was being refurbished or knocked down.

When visiting with Dale in Todos Santos she showed me old brick buildings and said that people were actually taking the stucco off and exposing the original brick below. T.S. is aiming for "quaint and picturesque". La Paz on the other hand is covering brick with stucco to look clean, modern, efficient.

Lying in the shade, giving me the eye, but he didn't stir enough to bark at me. There are dogs here, in the yards and being walked on the malecon but I haven't seen any strays. Dale told me that there had been a push to round them up and neuter them.

I couldn't resist it, "Dogtor", hee hee.

I'm assuming its a "kindergarten"

 

I arrived at the central square along a different route and this is the side of the catedral. It was full as was another church I walked past. Everyone in their best clothes. Music and singing.

Balloons, perhaps a reward for having been good in church.

The nuns having a bake sale.

Children everywhere feed and then chase pigeons.

I sat in the park and sketched the cultural centre, opposite the catedral and then continued on beyond the square still looking for an older neighbourhood.

This row looked as if it might have been older but really I didn't find much that had the feel of being "old La Paz"

By now I was getting hot and tired and as it was about 1:30, started to look for a place for lunch. I was at the far end of town so walked back along the malecon and found a restaurant where I could just get something light.

All I ordered was vino tinto, agua and gaucamole. The nachos and salsa come to the table automatically (like we might get bread)  and at this restaurant they also bought another dip to (the one in the middle). It was delicious and I asked the waiter what it was. He went and got the chef who came out to tell me it was a secret, then laughed and told me it was homemade; tomato, chilli, salt and mayonnaise. I was stuffed and couldn't finish it all.

I nursed the meal and wine as I had a great view across the bay from my table. Pelicans, gulls, osprey and frigate birds all flying, diving, fishing, perching for my entertainment.

Two of these cruised by every now and then. The police were armed and there was a mounted machine gun in the back of the truck.

Entertained by the boats too. Wind was under 10 knots, temperature in the mid 20's, lovely day for the spinnaker.

I paid la cuenta and walked along the beach as the tide was out. Lots of birds digging in the wet sand. This might be a marbled godwit.

The fishing boats were pulled up on the beach.

I guess the fish get a break on Sundays.

I'll never have to look up a reddish egret again, they are identifiable by the way they dance around while fishing, dodging this way and that, (ADHD bird)

Hammerhead shark sculpture.

I walked about half way back along the malecon before flagging down a taxi and coming home.