Tuesday 28 March 2023

Cyprus - saying goodbye.

Saying goodbye has been harder this time. This is the first time I have really felt connected to a place and the people I have met here. Numerous members of the two walking groups expressed a hope that I would return and it was mentioned that if I did go to Crete (which is my plan) next year..."It's not that far away, you could come back to visit". 

My last painting class and we focused on skies.


Judith said that she hope I would come back to class if I came back to Cyprus.

She said she had enjoyed the experience of teaching again as the rest of her students are now so proficient it is just a case of making occasional suggestions.

Nikki and John had me over for a drink and nibbles as a send off and I took them over the flowers and herbs that I had purchased back in January, for them to plant in their new garden.

Jimmy, Kay and I had a lovely goodbye dinner at Saffron, the Indian restaurant in Pissouri Bay


and I got up the courage to gift them my painting of Pissouri as they are moving away next month. Jimmy said, of me leaving, that it is like a "mate" moving away. He said the biggest compliment that an English man can give is calling you a mate.

My last day was spent packing, organizing, cleaning and sitting in the sun at every opportunity. Loucas (taxi) came and picked me up at 2pm.

The drive to Larnaca flew by as Loucas had been 11 and living with his family in Famagusta in 1974 when the Turks invaded. His family had to evacuate and start all over again, first in Limassol and then in Pissouri. His father had had a landscaping company and after working for someone else for a while was able to buy a machine and build up his business again. Loucas has only been back once and was very sad to see the dilapidation of what he described as a beautiful, vibrant city. He said that they all still have hope that they can return and still think of it as home.

My hotel is a block from the coast and a small fishing harbour.

No pleasure boats here, they are all small fishing boats and a couple of scuba diving boats.

An area to clean fish.

A stretch of high rise apartment blocks and hotels

and a wide sand beach

with a few people swimming and a couple of wind surfers.

 

Early flight tomorrow morning. The next blog post will be from home.

Cyprus - Kouklia olive press and sugar mill

 One day to go before I leave and I took the car down to the car wash where it was cleaned, inside and out, while I had a coffee in the cafe. Very civilized. I then looked up on Google Maps (GMs),  2 sites that I had seen mentioned on Facebook (by Cyprus Life that appears to be trying to sell you their app). Both the ancient olive press and the ancient sugar mill showed up on GM so off I went. Well GMs doesn't seem to differentiate between roads and farm tracks in Cyprus. I turned around once, not willing to drive under the A6 in a tunnel that was pitch black.

More farm tracks and a wrong turn though a citrus orchard but I eventually found the right track which ended at a fallen tree and a metal fence.


The weeds around were high and it looks like one other person had pushed themselves through them this spring (perhaps the person who wrote the Facebook post)

 There looked like there had been some restoration done on the pits.

 

Built at the location ‘Styllarka’ is an olive-oil press, whose three basic operational parts consisted of two fenestrated monoliths, the presser and its five tanks. It is one of the few olive-oil presses which have been well preserved and it has been declared by Unesco as a protected monument and world heritage. From kouklia.org.cy

Well I guess those are

fenestrated (have perforations, apurtures or transparent areas) monoliths

Making olive oil involved (and still does) several stages of crushing and rinsing to extract the oil. The olives were harvested by hand or by beating the fruit off the trees. The olives were then washed and crushed to remove the pits. The remaining pulp was placed into woven bags or baskets, and the baskets themselves were then pressed. Hot water was poured over the pressed bags to wash out any remaining oil, and the dregs of the pulp was washed away.

The liquid from the pressed bags was drawn into a reservoir where the oil was left to settle and separate. Then the oil was drawn off, by skimming the oil off by hand or with the use of a ladle; by opening a stoppered hole at the bottom of the reservoir tank; or by allowing the water to drain off from a channel at the top of the reservoir. In cold weather, a bit of salt was added to speed the separation process. After the oil was separated, the oil was again allowed to settle in vats made for that purpose, and then separated again. From thoughtco.com

Next I went looking for the sugar mill. It too was on GMs. Off I went down farm tracks again and, again, came to a halt by the highway. A man working in the field nearby came over when he saw me looking at my phone. "You ok?" "I don't want to go under the highway" "Yes, it's fine""Is it wet?" No, it's a culvert, it's fine" (Pretty good English...a culvert!) "Is it bumpy?" "Go slow, it's fine" and it was, just a cement culvert big enough for a tractor.

Another dead end track, another metal fence, but here someone had cut the grass or perhaps let the goats eat it down.

Vestiges of rooms,


cellars,

mill stones and

a row of pits,

with an exit

to a room behind.

Looking it up, it seems the growing of sugar cane and production of sugar came to the Mediterranean with the Arabs. First cultivation in Cyprus around the 10th century. The workforce was largely African slaves and production moved to Madeira when a new system of crushing the cane was developed there.

Both these sites had been excavated, had some restoration work done and a building erected to protect them. However there was no signage on the road that passed them and little indication that anyone visited them. No info boards! It was as if there had been money provided to get that far and then no-one, or no governmental department took any responsibility or interest in them after that.

Sunday 26 March 2023

Cyprus - Kouklia walk, backwards.

This Saturday it was my turn to lead the walk. I took them on the same one that I took the Wednesday group on, last month. This time I did it in the opposite direction, to make it different for Jimmy and myself.

The almond orchard was in blossom.

 
9 of us and although it wasn't a tough walk we had to stop periodically as "the greyhounds" at the front had to wait for those at the back to catch up.

I didn't get a lot of chance to take pictures as I was keeping an eye on how people were doing, besides, I've done this walk 4 times now.

Different flowers and longer grasses.

The donkey wasn't tied up this time and came to the wall to say "hi".

Huge, dandelion like, seed heads.

Its rather nice that this way around the final descent, back into the village, has views of the sea.

This time we ate at The Meeting Place, in Kouklia, and they reserved us a room.

Most ordered a full English breakfast and 2 of us had the vegetarian breakfast. About $8.

As I leave on Tuesday I am now into "last times". Last time I will dry my clothes outside, for a few months.

I finished this. I thoroughly enjoyed her first novel, The Secret Life of Bees. Loved this too.

I also finished this. We will see if my painting teacher agrees that it is finished when I go to class tomorrow.

Guest photographers

Italy, Mark or Emma photographers.


Flamingos in Mexico. Chris or Jason photographers.

Happy belated birthday Maya. She wanted pizza. Aimee or Mike photographers.

Saturday 25 March 2023

Cyprus - Melanda Bay labyrinths.

 When Rick was here we walked Melanda Heights and I was looking for the labyrinths that I had seen, half built, in 2020. I looked on google earth and realized we hadn't walked far enough so I started from the other end of the walk this time.

The turn off the B6, that has a sign to the restaurant, quickly degenerates,tarmac, gravel and then rough rock and dirt


through vineyards. One side of the road in winter mode and

definitely spring on the other side. I have to assume they are different varieties.

3km and I get to the beach.


The restaurant is open but only has a few patrons.

No fishing boat at the ramshackle dock this year.

I walked along the beach and up on to the rocks

then took the rather overgrown path along the coast.


It wasn't very far

and there they were: 3 completed labyrinths and

some standing stones.

Some landscaping in process too.

I walked the largest one, made of grey and black beach rocks, set in cement. Weaving back an forth along the path

until I reached the centre

then back out the same way. I find it very relaxing.

Then I walked the one made of broken pavers in cement and outlined with brown rocks

and the one with broken pavers

and blue rocks.


Beside the sea,

surrounded by fields,

it's a lovely spot. I am so curious about who made them and why.

They are not listed on labyrinthlocator.com for Cyprus. On that site there is one that is a hedge maze in a botanical garden on the east end of the island and 2 mosaic labyrinths at the Pafos archaeological site.

Walking back


I did wonder why it was necessary to

point out that the jetty is dangerous.