Ireland - Baltimore and Skibbereen

Having done a lot of driving yesterday we stayed closer to home today. Drove the 3km into Baltimore and tried to find a ticket office for the Fastnet and ferry tours. No such thing. Has to be booked by phone or internet.

Fishing boat on the commercial dock with its nets spread out and being repaired.

We went into Dun Na Sead Castle, which dominates the village of Baltimore.

Built in 1215 and lovingly restored by private owners (who now live in part of it) it is quite small, dominated by a great room furnished with 13th century pieces.

It had been in ruins since occupied by Oliver Cromwell.

There was some interesting historical information and artifacts

and great views

from the rooftop,

shared with a young Jackdaw.

Next we walked through the village

following the trail to the Beacon.

Past "The Cove" where in 1631 Barbary pirates had landed and taken 107 Baltimore residents captive and sold them into slavery. None were ransomed, none returned.

I don't think I have posted a picture of this yet but it has been absolutely amazing to us that Fuchsia grows wild in the hedgerows here, lining the roads with red flowering bushes, often hemmed with orange Monbretia and sometimes bright yellow Gorse. We were expecting the green but not the other brilliant colours.

In a short time we were out on to moor land on a stone wall bordered narrow (goes without saying really) road.

The Beacon, which marks one side of the Baltimore harbour entrance, is not particularly inspiring, but gave us a destination for  a walk.

The views across the entrance and out along the coast are lovely though.

I watched a couple of little sailboats having fun in the shifty, gusty winds in the bay.

We walked back into the village

and, with permission, I snapped a picture of this Austin Healey,

participating in a tour.

Nicola and I headed back to the cottage for lunch and shared a bottle of local cider.

We spent the afternoon wandering the streets of Skibbereen, just enjoying the shops. We went into a display of art work depicting the Great Famine and subsequent emigration to the U.S. and Canada. It was so depressing we had to go into a wool shop to cheer ourselves up. We then found a gallery of local artists and saw some lovely paintings, woodworks, pottery and jewelry.

For dinner we walked to the local pub. "There's always a pub within walking distance in Ireland" was a quote from someone we talked to. I would add that it depends how far you are prepared to walk. This one is about 15minutes, part of it on a very busy road. I felt I should try a Guinness. I did. I didn't care for it! Bring on the red wine.

"An Sibin" is a "gastro pub" and the meal was fabulous. We have been surprised by the caliber of the cooking here. Every meal we have had has been made with fresh, local ingredients and often creatively prepared with subtle flavours, never bland but never over spiced. We both had grilled sea bass which was served over a lightly spiced "stew" of cherry tomatoes and black and green olives.

It was dark when we left the pub but our landlady had provided reflective vests for just such an occasion so we wore them on the way home.

Tomorrow we take the ferry out to Cape Clear Island, spend some time there and then continue out to the Fastnet Rock Lighthouse.