Thursday 27 March 2014

Paris 2014 - Day 2 , Catacombs and Notre Dame

The first night in Europe is always in question. I did not sleep well the night before I left, I only slept a few hours on the overnight flight but last night I slept from 10pm to about 7:30am, with periodic wakes and prompt returns to sleep. I awoke refreshed and ready to tackle the city. After a quick breakfast we stopped at our local bar for coffee and croissant - so delicious.
We walked up to the large area, in front of the station, where about 7 roads all converge, and into the piece of land, and building, in the centre. This was the entrance to the Catacombs and we had been warned to get there by 9:30 even though it opened at 10am. We were there at 9am and there were 4 in line ahead of us.
Aimee and Greg waiting in line. Only 200 people are let in at a time and the line
snaked around the corner by the time it opened.
It was 130 steps down into the catacombs and we had bought the audio tour as there English tour was only available 2 days a week, not today. So basically, the story is, that there are many miles of quarries below Paris. This is one of the reasons why there are no high rises in the Central area as in the early days the houses and streets would suddenly disappear because the early mining shafts would collapse. The cemeteries were also getting too full and a decision was made to move the bodies into the old quarries. At first each cemetery was emptied and the bodies dumped into the old quarries. Then it was decided that this was disrespectful and an effort was made to re-organze the "dump". So the catacombs were formed. I was awed. There are estimated to be the bones of 6 million people, rich and poor, all together.
The initial section describes the formation of the land under Paris, large seas in the ancient past and the quarrying of that material by the Romans and then the Parisians to build Paris. The walk is down about 130 circular stairs and then along narrow, stone, dim, often damp, corridors.
The entrance to the bone filled section of the tour.

The actual cemetery section is quite amazing. The skulls and shin bones are stacked in patterns and periodically there are plaques noting the cemeteries that had originally housed the bodies and relevant sayings, quotes and poems.

The corridors lined with skulls and bones seem to go on and on. The total walk is a couple of kilometres. The audio guide told stories of carvings made by the quarry workers, the discovery of wells and creation of reinforcements in the quarries, other public displays of, for example, skeletal deformities, a concert held in the tombs, famous visitors etc but what stayed with me was the devotion of key leaders to creating a magnificent memorial to the Parisians interred there and to the place that death holds in our intellect.
It was more than 80 winding stairs back to the surface and it was cooler outside than it had been underground.
We had a coffee and "flan" before returning home to regroup, have lunch and set out again. We took the bus to Ile-de-la-cite and walked to Notre Dame.
I always take a picture of the Rose Window, I cant help myself but unfortunately, don't do it justice.

This time I took some pictures of the other things I love in Notre Dame:
The lesser stain glassed windows,

Sculptures,
Joan of Arc
Beautiful painted ceilings and walls in some of the side rooms,
and the centre of the building.


We then walked around the back of Notre Dame, exploring the ponts , gardens and views of the exterior.
When George and I were here a couple of years ago there was just a scattering of locks, proclaiming eternal
love, on this bridge. Now there are literally tons and there is a move afoot to have them removed.
Cunard et pont
A chance view of mounted guards on the other side of the river
After the winter we've had it is so nice to see trees in blossom and plants in flower.
We came back "home" on a very crowded bus (we have to figure out when rush hour is in this city), stopped by our local bar for a drink and then came home to make our first supper in the apartment. Now I have to e-mail our land lady as we can't figure out how to use the dishwasher (yes, we have a dishwasher! Great apartment).
Tomorrow I think Aimee and I are going to the Louvre.

1 comment:

  1. I loved the Catacombs! I remember being terrified before I went in - had no idea what to expect. Glad you got to see it, such a strange place.

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