Friday 22 January 2016

Peru 2015/16 - G Adventures, Inca Trail - Day 3

We were up at 5am, surrounded by a cool mist; we were in the clouds. A quick breakfast of scrambled eggs with ham and cheese, bread with butter and jam and hot tea.
Above the clouds. The clouds swirled around for most of the morning, sun peaking through sometimes.
We were up this early as it was to be the longest day of hiking.
Picture taken by Danny
Start of the third day.
We were off and walking by 6:15 and walked up hill (again!) for about an hour and a half.
Photo by Danny or Fiona
Looking back at last nights camp, way below us.

Picture by Danny or Fiona
I managed the "up" portions a little better. Perhaps it was because we were lower or
because I knew it was for a shorter distance. It was still pretty steep and intimidating
but the views were stunning and I kept reminding myself that I was in the ANDES!
Our first stop was at another Inca site that would have been a way station (lodging and supplies) for the Inca runners that took messages along the trail. They ran for a certain distance and then passed the message on to the next runner.
Photo by Fiona
David talking about the site.
Another 45 minutes walking took us to where we had a snack break. There was an optional extra walk up to another Inca site. The rest of the group took those extra 100 steps up and 100 steps down. I did not!
The porters passed us on a downhill bit, at a run.
This is the site I didn't go to. Everyone else in the group did and I have seen their pictures.
It is very impressive with fabulous views, but my legs just were having none of it. I believe
it is called Sayaqmarka but I just though of it as the "200 step site".
The trail went by this site but by now the Inca sites were so plentiful I hardly
even stopped to look at it
Quick pic. though.

From here the trail went up and down hill, mostly through cloud forest, which was nice and cool in the beautiful sunny weather. It was supposed to be the rainy season. According to Daniel, this area of Peru has 2 seasons, wet and dry. We had wonderful weather although it could change rapidly from hot and sunny to cold and damp when a cloud suddenly surrounded us.
Bamboo.
At this point on the trail it was impossible to build into the mountainside so
the trail went through a tunnel.
The lunch site was on a hilltop and from there we could see the mountain we had to climb tomorrow, the river valley and glimpses of Agua Caliente (the closest community).
They went all out for lunch. Soup first then rice and zucchini, salad and Lomos Saltados (Beef
stew served over french fries that we had had in Cuzco) and
pizza. Followed by
cake! Two layers, icing flavoured and coloured with Tang. It was all delicious.
The part that I was most excited by though was not the food. It was a little tent that had been erected near our lunch spot.
A real seat and a compostable bag inside it.
We couldn't believe that we had had to use those disgusting toilets while all along someone was carrying this lovely device.
Laughing at me for taking the toilet picture.
We were introduced to our "support staff", the porters and cook, and they were introduced to us.
Our group of seven, 12 porters and a cook. David took the picture.
After all that food I just wanted to have a nap.
Just below the lunch spot, another Inca site.
Water fountain still working
Boy, those Incas could build for the long term and
they had some great views.
After visiting the Inca site just below our lunch spot it was another 3 and a half hours of walking. It was mostly downhill and quite steep. Through another tunnel in one place. We could hear the sounds of civilization, the train whistle as the railway in the valley goes to Agua Calientes. I had got used to the quiet. The only sounds had been wind, birds, the click of the treking poles and the chatter of other hikers.
Another sign that we were returning to the real world; Davids instruction to "be sure to stay to the left near the pylons". He said the hydro line had recently been put in to service a hydro electric dam. No machinery or helicopters were used though, everything was carried in on peoples backs and then erected on site.
Hydro pylon with the Inca agricultural terraces behind
The terraces were magnificent, climbing steeply up the mountainside
with views across the river valley to more mountains, some with snow.
We could see the Inca agricultural terraces for a long time as we came down the hill towards them and the camp was just another 20 minutes further on.

This huge open space was a great place to sit and just absorb the history and the
location and many hikers took advantage of that, sitting quietly on the terraces.
Looking up at all that stone.
Looking down at camp for the 3rd night.
Llama keeping the grass under control
We asked to have the portable toilet set up so we didn't have to use the community ones - priceless!
After supper, Danny thanked the porters and cook on our behalf and we gave them their tip envelope as they would pack us up early in the morning and then rush down the hill to meet the train. We were in bed early knowing we would be up well before dawn the next day.
We had hiked 16km. It had taken me about 10 hours. It was, so far, the most enjoyable day with so much to see and so many different environments to explore.

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