Madeira - Day 40 - Curral das Freiras (Nun's Valley)

My guidebook, walking book and brochure put out by the bus company all highly recommend a trip to the Nun's Valley and I nearly didn't do it today. When I looked outside there was a solid bank of dark clouds and strong winds. When I actually went out on the terrace it was as if the sky was cut in half; the solid cloud on one side and clear blue sky on the other. I took the chance that the Nun's Valley was on the clear side and went down to the bus terminal beside the cable car. The No 81 Route bus left right on time. One way ticket was 3.35. Cheapest rollercoaster ride I ever had. Up and down, zig and zag, swoop around bends, make cars back up to let you pass - I think the bus driver was really enjoying himself on this route.

I got off the bus at Eira do Serrado. According to the guide book, most of the scenic day trips bring their passengers here, to look at the view, and don't bother actually going into the valley itself.

It's a large modern complex with a hotel, restaurant, washrooms (for a price) and the most extensive souvenir shop I have seen yet.

From there I tried to take a panoramic shot but it really didn't do it justice.

I walked up to the Miradouro (Look out) and it really was a breath taking view, with the village below

surrounded by the mountains with clouds sliding over the top and creeping down the sides.

I tried a video. I have discovered that I can manage looking down from great heights and the end of the video does just that but still doesn't do the location justice.

Some of the people on the bus were residents, some took the bus down into the valley and walked up to the look out and some of us took the walk down into the valley.

It was a steep descent with 52 bends. I didn't count them, that fact is from the guidebook.

Through Eucalyptus and Laurel but also Chestnut trees, bare at this time of year but the ground had plenty of evidence of the nuts.

Peaceful with the occasional noise floating up from the valley, roosters, goats and then (unfortunately) a sound that I think was a leaf blower.

Most of the footpath was these "ox-cart stairs", shallow curve edged stairs made of small rocks. It wasn't difficult but was rough enough that I had to watch where I was putting my feet.

On the rock face you can see the remains of the old road that wound over the mountain pass and down into the valley. The road now goes through a tunnel to get there.

Land in the valley was given to the nuns of the Santa Clara Convent, in Funchal, in the 1400s. When pirates attacked in the 1500s the nuns fled to safety here. Supposedly on the footpath I was walking on.

About half way down there was a rest spot, with a picnic table. I chatted with an Irish woman there and we wondered if the nuns bought their religious artifacts with them, trying to imagine them, walking the path, in their habits, carrying the statue of the Virgin Mary.

I also met a family (Mum, Dad and 2 kids) from Vancouver, on a March Break holiday, walking up.

Not a lot of flowers on this path, some Broom

and some vicious looking Thistles with veregated leaves.

These last stairs went down to the road and then it was a short walk, up hill

to this restaurant which took full advantage of being next to the bus stop. I had fully intended to walk in to the village and look at the church, but was lured in by the waitress.

I sat in the sun, with a tabby cat winding herself around my legs and had octopus salad and a glass of red wine followed by a cafe con leiche and a Chestnut tart. The valley is famous for everything Chestnut and has a Chestnut Festival. The Swiss Air flight attendants at the next table had the Chestnut soup and said it was lovely and the Irish couple on the other side also raved about the Chestnut cake. We could see the bus coming up the hill (there was still more valley further down the road) and so paid our bills and collected our stuff in good time to get on and take the hair raising ride back to Funchal.