Madeira - Day 25 - Freitas Museum

Today I went looking for the museum that held the tile collection that Joao and Blanca's son, Juan, had mentioned on Sunday. Blanca sent me a link to the mention of it on the tourist web site and my guide book made mention of it. Trip Advisor had mixed reviews (mostly about the staff) and generally called it a "quirky" museum. But from all of that I had a general idea where it was and took the guide book map with me.

Looking up this narrow street I saw the bright pink colour and remembered the picture on the web site. Through iron gates, past a water feature,

up a driveway and

I was at the house.

There is a modern addition that houses the ceramic tile collection. Unfortunately you are not allowed to take pictures. There are three stories of tiles, displayed on the walls and in glass cases. Most are from Madeira, made in Spain and Portugal, if I was reading the Portuguese labeling correctly. There was also a large collection of Dutch tiles, some quite old and primitive and a small number of English tiles, mostly Art Deco. My plan is to take my sketchbook back there and draw some of them.
I wasn't allowed to take pictures in the house either:
The taste for objects, especially those related to Madeira, had in Frederico Augusto de Freitas, a Funchalese notary, a meticulous and dedicated collector. When he moved into this house, he found enough space to place the hundreds of pieces he had collected during his life. You will find almost anything in this museum, from English style furniture, ivory and paintings to pottery, religious images and an outstanding collection of glazed tiles… just to name some of the exhibits on display. From the Madeiran tourist site.
When I entered I was given a booklet in English which described the purpose of each of the rooms and highlighted some of the artifacts. It really was an inspiring collection of decorative furniture and accessories as well as works of art. Lots of heavy, carved wood furniture and then some with beautiful delicate inlays; desks, tables, sofas, chairs, musical instruments, boxes, glassware, ceramics, you name it, he collected it. The oldest rooms in the house also had ornate molding and painted ceilings, original wood floors and oriental rugs throughout. It was a large house with a ballroom, separate office and library, a few sitting rooms, games room, parlor, formal and informal dining rooms, tea room, bedrooms. All housing his extensive collection. Two rooms held his wife's collection of mugs (she also expanded into water and milk jugs)

I was permitted to take pictures in the Winter Garden

which was a little courtyard, off the tea room,

with a glass roof.

I could also take pictures in the garden.

Once out of the museum, I was now on the hunt for tiles.

Like on the steeple of the little church just down the street.

Built in 1596 and its doors were open!

Inside, its walls were entirely lined with simple blue and white tiles

Uneven and rough in places, they dated back to the early 17th century.

It had an ornate alter area and a fabulous painted ceiling

It wasn't until looking at this photo on the computer that I realized it was wood.

On the walk home, a house with a tiled second story.