Monday, 2 March 2020

Pissouri, Cyprus - "Green (Clean) Day" celebration.

Kay explained today;
"Stinky Thursday" is the last day that Greek Orthodox followers can eat meat. So called because of the smell of all the meat grilling.
"Cheesy Sunday" is the last day that they can eat dairy and
"Clean Monday" otherwise known as "Green Monday" is the first day of Lent. Seafood can be eaten.

At 10:45 I took my cooler and bag with clothing etc over to Kay and Jimmy's and they took Cheryl (lives next to them) and I up to Panorama Heights. Panorama Heights is an area that was slated for development and all the roads, streets lights and a children's park were completed before the financial crisis (2012/13) but nothing since.
Tables and chairs were set out on the 3 roads of an intersection with the band and dance area in the centre. There was plenty of parking all around on the roads that were meant to be lined by houses. A couple of porta potties were further down one road.
Some large Cypriot families had quite organized set ups
with multiple large BBQs wafting lovely smells
of grilling seafood.
Pretty organized with their drinks too ...


We would have been hard pressed to find chairs if we had left it much later.
Smaller family groups would just have one BBQ and
there were lots of fruits and vegetables in evidence.
It was a good representation of the village, Cypriots and English expats, together, though the English in general tended to go for the picnic basket over the BBQ.
Kite flying
is part
of the celebration and
the fields all around the venue were scattered with children flying them. The cool wind that kept us putting layers on was perfect kiting weather.

The village council provided free bread (I got one of the last loaves for our table and we shared it with the next),
wine (red, white and rose) and
Zivania.

Zivania - Cypriot pomace brandy produced from the distillation of a mixture of grape pomace and local dry wines made from Xynisteri and Mavro grapes. ... As defined by law, zivania shall not have more than 60% alcohol content. from Wikipedia. It was pretty strong but not unpleasant.

Lagana  is a special type of sesame bread made for lent. It tasted slightly of the sesame and slightly sweet.

Although we had sandwiches and drinks with us we did try some of the bread, wine and Zivania (OK, just Jimmy and I tried the last one). I had made a couple of egg salad sandwiches (respecting the no meat or dairy) and taken some grapes. I had also decanted some of the boxed wine into a small bottle and taken some water too.

Our little group.
I had made an Orange cake to share and Honey Balls (Loukamades) were also contributed to the table.
They were being made just down the row from us. These are a light dough, deep fried and then soaked in a honey syrup. They are sweet and gooey and way too good
When the live music started to play I went up to take this photo and promptly got pulled on to the dance floor by Fiona (who had cut my hair). She showed me how to take small steps, forward and back and around in a circle, hands at shoulder height, some twirling. I never really got the hang of it but we both enjoyed ourselves. (There's a video somewhere on Facebook)
Pretty soon the men took to the dance floor with some kicking and slapping of shoes
("Kartzilamas"): Men dance in pairs across from each other. These very lively dances demonstrate the virility and agility of the Cypriot men. From Kypros.org







 The band consisted of a violin (Kamanche), a Bouzouki and what looked like a tambourine but was often played like a drum. The singer was female.




After the men, the women took to the dance floor, in a much more restrained and gentle dance which included the use of handkerchiefs. According to one site I read this showed off the women's embroidery skills. So, traditionally - men show off their virility and women their sewing. You've come a long way baby (most of us can no longer sew).






The music sounded Greek but with Arabic overtones. Sometimes it was bouncy and foot tapping and other times it sounded mournful and plaintive. In the summer, at Greek Nights, in the Pissouri Square, the dancers wear traditional clothing but here, today, they were just dancing for fun, not for the tourists.












We stayed until many of the others had gone home and were really only driven away by the fact that it was cooling down. According to Kay it is a unique event in that it is truly Cypriot. At the same time there wasn't the feeling that tourists or expats shouldn't be there. Although we were in our own groups or family groups there were conversations between and people greeting each other and catching up.

Empty chairs as we walked to the car.

Probably for the clean up crew!

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